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 1 
 on: August 22, 2019, 11:14:23 PM 
Started by jbj38 - Last post by 1066
Hello John .... welcome to the BSAOG!   :welcome:

 2 
 on: August 22, 2019, 12:58:24 PM 
Started by jbj38 - Last post by jbj38
Hi All,
Thanks for letting me join the forum, after a break of over 40 years im the owner of a used, but quite nice BSA R10 Mk2 and enjoying every minute of it, im an engineer/fabricator by trade so will enjoy working on my R10, expect some obvious questions from me, but as the old adage goes, if you dont ask you dont get  :hee20hee20hee:
Cheers
John.


 3 
 on: August 22, 2019, 11:26:50 AM 
Started by JAY AYE - Last post by RANCiDTOM
I don't have a hammer in stock to weigh, I would say try taking 10% off your hammer, see how it goes. I've not de-tuned a high power version to bring it to sub12 so it's only a guess.
The main reasons for lightening a hammer is to increase hammer speed (reduce the hammer delay between release and striking the exhaust valve), reduce the hold open time (in your case you wish to do this to reduce power and it benefits by saving air), it also lessens the ability for the hammer to open the exhaust again on the bounce stroke as it has less mass and hence less potential energy. Reducing hammer bounce and "double tap" reduces noise from the hammer and reduces the "farting" effect  from the muzzle often heard from guns which multi-strike.
Another possibility you may consider is to shorten the hammer stroke which has similar effects. This is usually done by making a longer "nose" for the hammer but as the BSA/Gamo hammers are hardened it may be difficult to remove a nose then drill and tap the hammer body to fit longer replacement noses. Riku (RKR) has experimented with Delrin and PEEK plastic tips on Scorpion hammers, if you have access to a lathe it's not too difficult a job to make a new hammer nose and different materials for the tip. If you do experiment with these options I would suggest making the hammer nose from "silver steel" (annealed tool steel which can be hardened and tempered after machining if you desire but in the non-hardened state it's pretty tough and resilient) or stainless steel (again, no real need to harden as it is much tougher than "mild" steel).

 4 
 on: August 22, 2019, 08:16:20 AM 
Started by Supersport Shooter - Last post by Supersport Shooter
Hi, I've recently returned to airgun shooting in 2019 after a 40 year absence and am now making up for lost time. Much has changed since the days of backyard plinking with my old Milbro Diana - telescopic sights for one thing! Now getting the hang of mil dots. Perpetually seeking the perfect pellet.

 5 
 on: August 22, 2019, 01:47:10 AM 
Started by JAY AYE - Last post by JAY AYE
 :c017: Tom, for the information, just one other thing if I was to weigh the hammer how much would you suggest that I lighten it by

 6 
 on: August 19, 2019, 09:58:35 PM 
Started by JAY AYE - Last post by RANCiDTOM
OK, my fault regards spring guide was thinking Scorpion not Gamo Buccaneer.
This transfer port will be what you need: http://www.airgunspares.com/store/product/16158/BSA-Buccaneer-Transfer-Port-.177-Part-No.-16-9100/
Try this spring: http://www.airgunspares.com/store/product/16231/GAMO-Gamo-Coyote-Hammer-Spring-10J-Part-No.-16-9724/ it may be too weak with the standard hammer, but at present there's no lighter hammer option so you could try the hammer you have but grind a little off the second diameter from the nose. (The section between hammer nose and largest diameter collar where the latch pin fits through. BSA hammers are usually hardened, too tough to turn in a lathe but careful use of a grinder freehand can be worth the experiment, it's not an expensive part if you go too far!

 7 
 on: August 19, 2019, 07:16:53 AM 
Started by JAY AYE - Last post by JAY AYE
Tom, What I have found listed on John Knibbs website in regards to the parts I would require are as follows, hammer or hammer weight is what they refer it to Part Number 16-9107, the lightweight spring guide that you mention, the only thing I can find is a hammer bearing Part Number 16-9020, and the 16J hammer spring that is listed as fitting all powers 16 J through to FAC Part Number 16-6605   Are these the correct parts and if not light weight , could you do the required lightening job for me or please advise your suggested person

 8 
 on: August 18, 2019, 12:17:52 AM 
Started by shergar44 - Last post by shergar44
hello all

new to the forum so this is just a post to say hi , I own a bsa scorpion se .177 , in 30 years of shooting this is my first .177 rifle and what a accurate little gun it is .

many thanks Wayne

 9 
 on: August 16, 2019, 10:05:48 AM 
Started by JAY AYE - Last post by RANCiDTOM
Fit a HuMa reg, a lightweight hammer, lightweight spring guide with 16j hammer spring, then adjust to get yourself exactly where you need. If the transfer tube is larger than 4mm then you would need to fit a 4mm version but I don't think they are over 4mm on the 27j version. The standard (unregulated) transfer tube on the 16j version would be 3mm if I remember correctly, this is too restrictive for a regulated rifle.

 10 
 on: August 16, 2019, 04:23:25 AM 
Started by JAY AYE - Last post by JAY AYE
Where can I get information on the Gamo Coyote Black .177 These Air Rifles are unregulated and come in various powers, for the English market 16 joule and for countries that have no restrictions other higher powers. Australia does not have  restrictions except in my case a Target Match I wish to try has a internal Rule of 16 joule, a Firearms Dealer here in Adelaide South Australia has one in stock however 27 joule, my question is this (and can it be done ) what differences are the internals between the two powers, if there are some different parts can they be swapped out and then regulate with what ever brand after market Regulator. This is something I have on my mind and being unexperienced I need some experience to advise if this can be done

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