jiggy 666
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« on: March 05, 2010, 12:54:08 PM » |
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hey guys im just wanting to no how long will it take to v-mach my lightning and which tools i need as i have always paid for my other guns improving and its about time i start doing my own work its already been done by first owner but not with a v-mach i think it was a rs kit carnt remeber its good but i fancy making it abit better also is there a differant trigger unit that can be bought for these like a two stage trigger
thanks for replys inadvance jiggy
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seagate
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« Reply #2 on: March 05, 2010, 04:34:51 PM » |
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Hey up jiggy, what do you get in the vmach kit, and are they expensive? nick
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BSA Lightning XL 22 BSA Scorpion 22 hw99s 22 hw45 22 hw80 22 going soon aatx200 177
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jiggy 666
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« Reply #3 on: March 05, 2010, 04:51:13 PM » |
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seagate i dont no as i have not got one yet im wanting to find out what tools i will need and how long it will take for a novice to do i have been looking on blackpool airgun site and really fancy installing one myself
also looked at gas-ram but the lightning is too light to put one in unlike my old hw90k wich was good very good thats my oppinion tho and others may say differant
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seagate
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« Reply #4 on: March 05, 2010, 05:01:10 PM » |
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Fair comment, good luck with it. nick
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BSA Lightning XL 22 BSA Scorpion 22 hw99s 22 hw45 22 hw80 22 going soon aatx200 177
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RANCiDTOM
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« Reply #5 on: March 05, 2010, 05:07:08 PM » |
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Basic hand tools required to strip and rebuild the rifle, a spring compressor with the correct fitting to allow pressure on the spring seat and not the cross pin. That's about it. The V-Mach kits come with a tool for piston seal installation if I remember correctly. RT
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Still got me clogs and Lancashire duelling banjo even though I'm darn Sarf!
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othickman
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« Reply #6 on: March 05, 2010, 05:48:48 PM » |
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I realise you've probably already thought about this, in which case I'd still want to reiterate it, but are you sure you want to pay that amount of money to improve the lightning although it already has been improved? Sure you'd not rather just buy a better gun and possibly then improve that?
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CrewCab
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« Reply #7 on: March 05, 2010, 07:19:52 PM » |
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Basic hand tools required to strip and rebuild the rifle, a spring compressor with the correct fitting to allow pressure on the spring seat and not the cross pin. I've been thinking about a v-mach kit for my Lightning too, hand tools are not a problem nor are the basic skills, but ......... if someone could give a little more detail of the spring compressor etc required I (and I suspect a few others) would be grateful  Cheers chaps  CC
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jiggy 666
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« Reply #8 on: March 05, 2010, 07:28:33 PM » |
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I realise you've probably already thought about this, in which case I'd still want to reiterate it, but are you sure you want to pay that amount of money to improve the lightning although it already has been improved? Sure you'd not rather just buy a better gun and possibly then improve that?
i have had most of the hw's bar the 25 both aa the tx and ps most beeza's bar supersport and really old vintage ones all weblys and it has come down to i like the lightning that much i want to make it better than it already is i liked all other makes and models of airguns but there is sumert about the bsa lightning that i want to keep and improve more plus i prefer springers over pcp's anyday of the week but i will get another pcp one day
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RANCiDTOM
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« Reply #9 on: March 05, 2010, 09:38:21 PM » |
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I realise you've probably already thought about this, in which case I'd still want to reiterate it, but are you sure you want to pay that amount of money to improve the lightning although it already has been improved? Sure you'd not rather just buy a better gun and possibly then improve that?
All you need is a piece of steel bar or tube (thick walled so it won't collapse under pressure) with a slot cut across the end deep enough to bridge the crosspin that holds the spring guide/seating washer and push it 3 mm in against the spring pressure to allow the pin to be removed. The pin has a set of recesses machined into it's side to locate on the spring seat and guide, preventing it moving sideways without the spring pressure being removed from it first. RT
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Still got me clogs and Lancashire duelling banjo even though I'm darn Sarf!
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ebo
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« Reply #10 on: March 09, 2010, 10:22:24 PM » |
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I have just fitted a V-Mach kit to my XL 0.177 and i am so glad i done it it has made a huge difference to the gun and the way it shoots !!!! Cant recommend enough and the delivery was spot on 5 days and i was quoted 5 to 7 working days.
You get new spring, rear spring guide, piston seal, breech seal, top hat, molly grease, oil and spacers to increase or decrease power to within legal limits.
I fitted mine myself and it isn't that hard to do, if you need any help there are plenty of us here to help.
V-mach and trigger tune/polish = 1 happy and smooth shooting, zero twang,less recoil and accurate BSA Lightning XL 0.177 !!!
DO IT DO IT !!!
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ebo
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« Reply #11 on: March 19, 2010, 06:47:40 PM » |
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Just out of interest, those that have fitted V-Mach kits how many of the washers did you put in and did you put the delrin spacer in ? If you had to remove any what would you remove first washers's or delrin spacer ?
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domin8or
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« Reply #12 on: April 01, 2010, 03:35:13 PM » |
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i've a gas ram in my lightning and it's superb 
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silent sniper
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« Reply #13 on: April 01, 2010, 04:39:32 PM » |
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in reply to ebo there is no hard and fast rule as to how many washers or spacers you use they just give you a little bit of power adjustment to keep you legal, as a rule of thumb i put the brass washer in the piston as it acts as a weight and any delrin spacers in behind the spring guide these are the ones i would add or subtract to keep the power were i wanted it ,i am not a profesional and these are just my findings from my own research, talking to others, and trial and error hope it helps 
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trekker
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« Reply #14 on: April 02, 2010, 03:49:04 AM » |
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gee... I sure wish I had my V-mach kit. Still waiting since I ordered it over 9 days ago.. I wish Mr. Pope had a distributor in the states!
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Sturnus vulgaris 8 Passer domesticus 6
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Jerry_H
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« Reply #15 on: April 02, 2010, 09:57:10 AM » |
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I've been fiddling with plaxtic spacers in an HW80 with standard spring, and frankly it's been doing my head in. Consider this, a 3mm plastic spacer gave me sub 7 ft/lb, a 3mm steel spacer gave me 11+ ft/lb!  Now on the V-Mach thing there's nothing specific in the instructions about its use, so the question is, is it there to allow the power to be reduced? Does it absorb power from the spring?
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trekker
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« Reply #16 on: April 02, 2010, 03:24:45 PM » |
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I've been fiddling with plaxtic spacers in an HW80 with standard spring, and frankly it's been doing my head in. Consider this, a 3mm plastic spacer gave me sub 7 ft/lb, a 3mm steel spacer gave me 11+ ft/lb!  Now on the V-Mach thing there's nothing specific in the instructions about its use, so the question is, is it there to allow the power to be reduced? Does it absorb power from the spring? Great question. Considering your test, it appears that a softer material absorbs the energy. I would ask the manufacturer or the kit for a specific answer. I will be getting the FAC V-mack kit. I wonder what is in it to adjust the energy produced.
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Sturnus vulgaris 8 Passer domesticus 6
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silent sniper
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« Reply #17 on: April 02, 2010, 07:20:16 PM » |
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to jerry h which end of the spring are you putting your spacers ?
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Jerry_H
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« Reply #18 on: April 02, 2010, 08:42:22 PM » |
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On the spring guide.
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silent sniper
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« Reply #19 on: April 02, 2010, 08:49:18 PM » |
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well as i said in my previous post try the metal one in the piston as it adds weight and the delrin one at the guide end i think that is how they should go though none of the kit makers tell you which way but this seems to be the general opinion from hours of googling ,,let us no if it makes a difference 
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Jerry_H
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« Reply #20 on: April 02, 2010, 09:43:34 PM » |
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Ok, cool, thanks for that, I'll try it.
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trekker
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« Reply #21 on: April 12, 2010, 09:28:38 PM » |
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Well after what seemed FOREVER getting my V-mack kit, it finally arrived and now I have an excuse to go fiddle in the shed with my XL.
I'm in the states so sub 12 ft/lbs is not an issue. I would like my pellet to go through a cinder block. But I would like a smooth firing rifle.
I plan to place the delrin washer at the guide end and the washers in the piston. I was wondering; more washers = more power?
When new with the stock spring fresh from the factory, the rifle shot .177 - 13 ft/lbs. I was wondering, do I need this power when plinking pests in the back yard? Steve Pope (the V-Mach guy) encouraged me to get the non-FAC style kit but I opted for the FAC kit. If I took it down to 12 ft/lbs, would I have a better shooting rifle?
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Sturnus vulgaris 8 Passer domesticus 6
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Jerry_H
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« Reply #22 on: April 12, 2010, 10:16:23 PM » |
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There is a thing that points towards many pellets becoming unstable at higher speeds, certainly target rifles run on sub 6 ft/lbs, for that reason and for reduced recoil, they are more accurate. Plus there's the thing about impact damage, a high speed pellet will pass through, where a slower one might be more effective if it hits duller. Your pellet choice can help that though.
I've only recently twigged on to the spacer position thing as you can read above. The plastic one goes on the spring guide, the metal ones into the skirt of the piston. The metal ones add weight to the piston, hence more inertia to overcome the resistance felt when compressing the air.
Finally consider the longevity of the gun, forcing more power out of it stresses everything up, hence wear will increase, it's not uncommon for some guns to simply break when they've had too powerful a spring put in them for instance.
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trekker
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« Reply #23 on: April 13, 2010, 01:20:37 AM » |
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Good advise. I must be getting old (or wiser) for desiring accuracy, consistency, and longevity over POWER. I'll experiment a little bit. I do have a question unrelated though... For those who put in a V-mach spring, did you keep the plastic sleeve? This is part number 10 here. http://bsaog.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=9042.0The new spring is slightly larger in diameter than the stock spring. ***edit*** I left the plastic spring sleeve in there. It was a tight fit but it works fine. I wish I had a chronograph at my disposal all the time to check it though.
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« Last Edit: April 25, 2010, 09:54:42 PM by trekker »
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